The first two pieces in this outfit went together rather quickly.
The Corset is another matter. There are lots of pieces with this one and I found the pattern directions very unclear.
The key to success in this piece is the muslin. Muslin is inexpensive. Designers always make a muslin of a garment first, fit it, then use the muslin to make the finished pattern and ultimately the finished garment. This corset pattern is very fitted (it’s supposed to hold your girls in place without any additional help!) and can be tricky when trying to alter it.
According to my measurements, I needed to add 3″ to the pattern. I spent an entire afternoon cutting and altering the pattern only to make up the muslin and realize it was too big. I suggest that you purchase the pattern closest to your measurements, cut out the muslin, baste it together and fit it before doing any other altering. You may be surprised, I sure was.
The other thing is that the seam allowance on this pattern is 1″ instead of the standard 5/8″. It is only marked in one spot that I could find on the pattern. Can you say CONFUSING????? DON’T YOU THINK THEY SHOULD HAVE PLASTERED THIS JUICY LITTLE BIT OF INFORMATION EVERYWHERE???
I chose to ignore the 1″ seam allowance and used the 5/8″. It does give you a bit of room for error, even though it’s rather annoying since the rest of the pattern making world uses a 5/8″ seam allowance.
There is a lining and an interlining (muslin) that are first basted together and contain the boning. This part is not hard.
This is the right side of the interlining. The back interlining pieces are constructed the same way, basted together and then have the boning added. It took me FOREVER to decipher the pattern directions. Why don’t they use color pictures???
Then you begin construction on the exterior pieces. The braid over the bodice seam is added next. Repeat on garment back pieces.
Put the interlining and exterior pieces together with right sides, sewing along armhole, strap and center front seams, leaving the bottom and side seams open to turn the garment right side out. Press, then baste raw edges together.
Top stitch the trim on to the neck and shoulder. The peplum gets added next with the same process as before, first sewing the interlining, then the exterior pieces get added to it. Repeat for back pieces.
Technically, the peplum can be added before the trim is put on and you can run the trim right down to the lower front edge, I decided not to do this and added my trim first.
The final step is to put front and back pieces together at the side seams, then add the grommets and lacings.
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